The long read · 17 years of dum
The aroma finds you first.
Some restaurants advertise. Ours leaks. Every morning at eleven, the first handi of the day is unsealed on Wyra Road and the whole street knows before the waiter does. Since 2009, that aroma has pulled Khammam through our doors — for slow-cooked dum biryani, Yemeni-style mandi, kuboos-wrapped shawarma by the lake, and Irani chai that refuses to be hurried.